I don’t know how Travis Tan does it, but he has turned out one fantastic watch after another. I just had a spin with a prototype RZE Ascentus GMT, which places the new Seiko NH34 four-hand automatic into a typically excellent RZE 40mm titanium case with a handsome and colorful dial, and tops it off with a fabulous new bracelet.
There is no mistaking the RZE DNA here. That case displays the same angular appearance that made the Resolute and Endeavour so appealing, spreading out that 13mm overall thickness so that it looks and feels far thinner. The matte gray finish is pure tool watch utility and protected by the brand’s UltraHex hardening treatment, which takes the surface to an impressive 1200hv.
All of the tool watch specs are present and accounted for: 200m water resistance, Viton gaskets, a Super AR-coated sapphire crystal (which is remarkably effective!), drilled lugs, and a particularly well-sculpted screw-down crown. It is a ton of toughness packed into a modestly sized package. A compact 46mm lug-to-lug length ensures a proper fit on smaller wrists like my own (6.75″).
When Seiko set the NH34 into the world, they unleashed a flood of microbrand GMTs. We affordable watch enthusiasts had been denied automatic GMTs for far too long, so the prospect of one based upon the NH35 architecture (24 jewels, 21.6k bph, Diashock protection) was welcome news. This is the second watch I’ve sampled with this movement, and I must say, so far, so good. It behaves exactly as one would expect, with the comforting prospect of years of hassle-free service ahead.
True to RZE form, it lives under an almost sterile case back.
The review sample is Azure Blue, a light, crisp color that presents an intriguing contrast to the sand-textured surface on which it is applied. I’ve seen quite a few variations on this Tiffany-esque theme in the past year or so, but I can’t recall any who took it in this rough-and-tumble direction. It works, especially as that DLC black titanium 24-hour bezel grounds it. Other dial options include yellow, black, and full-lume white.
The layout follows the RZE design identity we have come to expect with round, almost pill-shaped applied markers, brushed sword hands, lollipop second hand, and a generous application of Swiss SuperLuminova. The new addition, of course, is the yellow fourth hand.
What’s missing from this prototype is a date window. Production models have it at 3 o’clock, displaying a color-matched wheel.
Perhaps the most exciting element of the Ascentus is its Hex-Link bracelet. RZE looked at the beads-of-rice design, long my favorite for both appearance and comfort, and said, “what if this was 8-bit?” Instead of beads, we have small blocks individually articulated to flow over your wrist. Before you lump the RZE together with engineer or hammered-link bracelet designs, I’d note that I’ve owned a few of these too, and all of their links have chamfered edges like the outer links of the RZE and none exhibit the Lego brick squareness of this bracelet’s central links. I did not expect a Minecraft beads-of-rice to work this well, yet it does. It looks and feels amazing. Of course, the lightness of the titanium doesn’t hurt a bit, and it is all UltraHex hardened titanium. The clasp is stainless steel and matched in both color and finish.
I’m trying hard not to get spoiled by these RZE watches. It’s not easy, though. Each successive model has built upon the last, making incremental steps forward while preserving the remarkably successful RZE tool watch formula and brand identity. I almost wish they would do something crazy to shake me up, but that is not how they operate. Travis and company have established a solid brand here and are growing it with great care.
The RZE Ascentus GMT is available now for $549, which is excellent given these specs and the outstanding Hex-Link bracelet. With other RZE models, I have seen the popular colors sell out quickly, so if there is one that has stolen your heart (and I’m guessing it’s the Azure), I’d recommend you move quickly or risk waiting for the next batch.
Head over to RZEWatches.com for more.
