On September 1, Varius Watches will launch its first watch, the Seek, on Kickstarter. The Ohio-based brand is offering a Swiss-made, 300m diver in black or white, which will be limited to 250 pieces per model. I took both versions for a spin to see if this newcomer was worth its planned $849 presale price.
The Seek’s sophisticated design is a hint that this is not the brand’s first rodeo. Ok, technically, it is for the brand but not for its founder, Ken Mitchell, who first tried his hand with the Pancerna back in 2022. That watch failed to fund, so he sharpened his pencil, rethought the product, and here we are.
The new watch takes its inspiration from 1970s divers, which are undoubtedly a rich source upon which to draw. I see echoes of Seiko Turtle and Certina DS in the Seek’s 42mm case, and this is a good thing. I love the sporty look of that prominent bezel. Even though the overall thickness is a sizable 13.4mm, the broad, flat case makes it appear slimmer.
With its brushed finish and absence of any chamfers, the Seek exudes a bluntly utilitarian vibe. That is not to say it is in any way brutish or uninspired, just purposeful. I particularly like the gear-tooth edging of the bezel and crown. Both are titanium, and the signed crown screws down, of course. At 8mm, it is large enough to offer an easy grip, but so big that it gets in the way.
The low profile and gentle arch of the barrel make the Seek quite wearable. At 48.5mm long, the Seek is right at the limits of my 6.75″ wrist’s comfort zone, yet it still manages to keep its overall presence aggressive without appearing oversized.
It is also surprisingly light, much more so than its 50-year-old ancestors. That is because both the case and the bracelet are made of titanium. Given the proliferation of titanium products these days, it’s easy to forget that just ten years ago, it was still a rare material among independent watchmakers and almost unheard of in the microbrand world. On the Varius Seek, it is lighter in color than many of the matte gray titanium cases you might find out there. I thought it was stainless steel until I picked it up, although I did notice that it was slightly darker than my stainless watches when I placed them side by side.
I’ve often said that titanium is the best material for a tool watch, and my opinion hasn’t wavered. It’s lightweight, antimagnetic, hypoalergenic, and has high tensile strength. What could be better? Well, maybe scratch resistance. The metal does tend to pick up scuffs and scratches, leading some manufacturers to employ hardening treatments. Varius does not, although they do offer tips on DIY scratch removal.
The Seek’s face is a well-executed take on the conventional diver’s layout. While it looks great in both colors, I felt the white dial best displayed the bar markers and unique, semi-skeletonized handset. Please take a moment to appreciate that dramatic hour hand, paddle second hand, and the fabulous two-tone paint scheme that makes the center disappear.
Dial text is minimal, modern, and clean, and the sparse use of red in the chevron and model name provides maximal impact. This, my friends, is how you update a diver. There is no doubt of what the Seek is trying to be; no function has been compromised, yet it still looks fresh and contemporary.
This pretty face is protected by a 4.5mm thick sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.
A dive watch isn’t worth much if you can’t read it in the briny depths, so Varius was sure to give the Seek a good dose of Swiss Super-Luminova: BGW9 for the markers and hands, C1 for the bezel pip.
In typical dive style, the bezel has a 120-click, unidirectional rotation. It moves well with no backplay. I felt it was a bit light, but I suspect I can chalk that up to its titanium construction. It is fitted with a ceramic insert. Like titanium, we microbrand enthusiasts have come to take ceramic for granted. I am still a sucker for its glossy lustre.
As you might expect from a Swiss-made watch, the movement is an ETA 2824 design, specifically, the Sellita SW200-1 automatic (28.8k bph, 38-hour power reserve). You can have a peek through the exhibition case back, although you will find the logo-emblazoned window is more decorated than the movement. These Sellitas are wonderful little engines; they just aren’t terribly dressed up.
While we are checking out the flip side, notice the fitted end links and quick-release pins of the bracelet. Unlike some I’ve sampled, the posts on these pins are easily accessible, requiring no more than a normal pinch to release.
This is handy because Varius offers very nice white, black, and orange FKM rubber straps that measure 75/126mm in length, 22mm at the lug end, and 20mm at the buckle. Varius says they will fit an 8″ wrist, and given that bit of extra strap showing in my wrist shot, I don’t doubt it. I made use of the two floating keepers to keep that tail from wagging. The straps’ sculpted design and crosshatch texture give them a premium look, and as one would expect from FKM, they feel great. They are secured with a signed, 20mm, stainless steel buckle. As I mentioned above, the Seek’s titanium case looks very close to steel, so the buckle matches it well. Varius offers the straps as a $29 option and promises all three free with purchase if they meet their Kickstarter goal.
The standard bracelet is a traditional three-link with push-pin links and a signed, flip lock, push-button clasp. It does not break any new ground, but it looks appropriate for this case, and most importantly, the titanium links add almost nothing to the overall weight of the watch. As I say, you should always get the bracelet. This is doubly true if it is titanium and trebly so when it is free.
My review samples arrived in a neat zippered travel case that was well-padded and had a handy webbed pocket, making it perfect for Varius and sundry items. No. I am not sorry for the terrible pun.
So, should you buy a Various Seek next month? If you are looking for a slick and well-equipped diver’s watch, I think it is well worth your attention. The watch combines premium materials, high water resistance, and slick looks into a very appealing package. Also, I don’t think I need to remind my fellow Americans that thanks to our baffling new tariff policies, Swiss watches aren’t getting any cheaper.
The Varius Seek Kickstarter Campaign kicks off soon. In the meantime, head over to variuswatches.com to get more information and to sign up for alerts.
