At last, 2025 is drawing to a close, and that means it’s time to announce the Time Bum Microband Watch of the Year! Our crack team of horological journalists roamed watch events, gathered samples, identified the finest candidates, and argued their merits to the rest of the panel.
We followed these rules:
- We only considered microbrand watches, which we defined as having a small number of full-time employees, outsourcing most of their production, using movements not produced in-house, and conducting sales primarily online with no more than a limited brick-and-mortar presence. Obviously, that excludes the Swiss and Japanese juggernauts, as well as larger independents like Nomos, Oris, and Christopher Ward.
- The watches had to be available for delivery in 2025. Watches that could be ordered but not delivered by year-end did not qualify.
- We could only nominate watches we had actually handled. This one is always difficult because there are so many great watches out there and so little time to play with them all, but you don’t really know a watch until you have it in your hand. This is why watch events are so important.
- The watches could not cost more than $3,000. We didn’t even come close this year as our most expensive finalist was still under two grand.
Above all, we asked which watches best demonstrated the creativity and value that make the microbrand watch segment so much fun. There were many worthy candidates this year, but after careful consideration, The Time Bum panel of experts is proud to announce…
The 2025 Time Bum Microbrand Watch of The Year: RZE UTD 8000, $275-450
This year, the RZE UTD 8000 was our runaway winner, as it perfectly captured everything we love about microbrands. Specifically, it masterfully filled a niche larger brands have left unaddressed, and did so at an unbeatable price. As Time Bum contributor Matthew Kessler-Cleary said, “[t]he UTD isn’t the first digital microbrand watch, but it is the first I can recall that is a quality improvement over what you can get from corporate brands.” The titanium case goes a long way in that respect. It looks sharp, clearly telegraphing RZE’s well-established design language.
Mike Razak lauded the fact that the UTD 8000 is a digital watch in a space normally obsessed with mechanical movements, and noted that given RZE’s tool watch ethos, a digital just makes sense. To this end, RZE made it tough as nails, with a sapphire crystal, UltraHex coating, 200m water resistance, and a lifetime guarantee. D.C. Hannay was impressed by RZE cofounder Huiy Tang at District Time “hammering the watch with a heavy rubber mallet like it owed him money.” If you want a titanium bracelet to go with it, RZE can supply one for $170. Could it be any better? A second time zone wouldn’t hurt, but at this price, it’s hard to complain.
The Rest of The Best of 2025
The following watches may not have clinched the top spot, but they all fought hard for the honor. We present them in alphabetical order.
Dennison ALD Dual Time, $890
Matt described this one as “well-designed weird,” and I’d say that sums it up nicely. The Dennison delivers a 1970’s high-fashion vibe with a soft, lugless TV case and Swiss Ronda quartz movements. Dual dials float elegantly over exotic stone. I’m partial to the malachite and tiger-eye dials that highlight the second time zone with a matching sunray. As Matt said, “they are not the most practical watches (two time zones that both lack hour markers won’t make it a tool to ensure you catch your connecting flight), but they are right up there with the most beautiful.”
echo/neutra Rivanera Piccolo, $1,980
You might remember that echo/neutra held a place of honor on this list last year with the excellent Rivanera watch. Well, they did it again with the Rivanera Piccolo, a smaller (26x33mm), squarer, and dare I say, more formal version of their titanium tank watch concept. “echo/neutra has really found its voice with the design language of the Rivanera,” says DC, “and the sleek refinement of the Piccolo is the proof.” It runs a Sellita SW1000 automatic, measures 26x33mm, weighs a scant 29g, and presents a marvelous juxtaposition of that dark, industrial matte case and elegant guilloché or Musou Black™ dials, creating truly modern dress watches. “I don’t know how they did something so revolutionary 2 years in a row,” Lauren said when she nominated the Piccolo. “It’s a fantastic expression of the way brands can push the boundaries of what we expect of a microbrand watch.”
Lesablier Universalis, $1,050
The Universalis takes the already excellent Lesablier Travelgraph Worldtimer and dials it up to 11 with the addition of a world map that aligns with – and is illuminated by – the watch’s rotating 24-hour day/night time zone disc. Driven by a modified Miyota 9075 and featuring a dashing multi-faceted case, the Universalis is a practical and elegant sport watch that can easily serve as your one and only timepiece for your globe-hopping adventures. As I mentioned in my review, the wealth of detail elevates the Universalis to a level that you are unlikely to find at this price point.
Markwell Hard Candy, $492
The Hard Candy was one of the most visually striking watches of 2025. Markwell deftly combined a horn-lug case, arresting typography, and a glass-fired enamel dial that Matt described as “the most beautiful I’ve seen in some time, like radiant pools that draw your eyes and don’t let go.” A Miyota 9039, 100m water resistance, and a sub-$500 price tag make it an easy choice for daily wear. Is the Hard Candy perfect? Our team argued about the hands set (I like it, Matt does not) and agreed that we would likely replace the FKM strap with a more tailored leather alternative, but these quibbles do nothing to detract from the Markwell’s abundant charm and outstanding value.
Serica 1174-3 Parade, $1,174
I think Serica caught everyone off guard when they launched the Parade. Like echo/neutra, Serica infused its dress with tool-watch DNA, creating an immensely satisfying timepiece. I recall trying the prototype at the 2024 Intersect Austin and marveling at the 35mm stadium case with its subtle flares forming elegant crown guards. The Ref. 1174-1’s brass radial guilloché dial was lovely, but it was the tobacco linen dial of the 1174-3 that won our hearts. The Parade features a Swiss Soprod M100 with Côtes de Genève finishing. DC, summed up the Serica Parade as “a striking take on the arty, shaped watches of the hedonistic ’70s: substantive enough for daily wear, without the hype-driven vintage price tag.”
Sheffield 1a 38 Black/Orange, $198
I’ve expressed my admiration for the Sheffield 1a line before. Since the 1a-series launch in 2023, Sheffield has continually refined its flagship model to showcase heritage design elements. The Black/Orange does it again, with another classic logo, handset, and color combination. Sheffield delivers this with a Seiko NH35, a sapphire crystal, and an FKM strap in a 200m 38mm case, all for the impulse-buy price of $198. As DC says, it’s “a visually perfect callback to the golden age of tool watches, offered at a jaw-dropping price point.”
UDC Autoclassic, $475
When Lauren nominated the Autoclassic, she said, “I love how this watch represents the evolution of UDC‘s design language and aesthetic, and I can’t wait to see where they take it next.” I couldn’t agree more. As I mentioned in my review, while the brand’s first model was quite nice, the Autoclassic is far more refined with its sensuously soft case, streamline moderné bezel, and tachometer-inspired asymmetric layered dial. The Autoclassic is a clean, clever expression of its vintage sports car design brief.
Vario Futurist, $648
Vario is a reliable favorite in the microbrand world, and they have hit a home run with the Futurist. You say you want retro-modernism? Well then, how about a 39mm case with radial engraving, a 12 o’clock crown, a colorful fume dial, and a faceted sapphire crystal? It’s a space-age watch from a time when we believed space travel was “for all mankind” and not just a vanity project for delusional billionaires. I applaud its expressive design and masterful execution. Matt called it “a Seiko Vanac revival that is considerably better than Seiko’s own effort.” I tend to agree, although I think Vario has borrowed Vanac design cues to create something even more distinctive. With its fabulous details and silky Miyota 9039, the Vario Futurist more than justifies its price and proves that if you want to see the future of horology, you should look to the microbrands.
