The horological world needs more brands like Montreal’s Tessé Watches and more models like the Architect. Even if this particular watch doesn’t speak to you, you have to respect a designer who thinks, “What if I made a multi-part, multi-finish dial with varying dimensions, in a range of intensely vibrant colors?” and then executes that plan. Merely taking such a chance enriches the community; executing it as brilliantly as they did on this watch elevates it.
Yes, I really enjoyed my time with the Tessé Architect ($1,543). While it is not beyond criticism, it offers so very much to enjoy.
The Swiss-made Architect starts with an élaboré-grade ETA 2892-A2 automatic (21 jewels, 28.8k bph, 50-hour power reserve), a smooth and robust unit that also has the distinct advantage of being exceptionally slim. Its 3.6mm height helps keep the case relatively svelte at 10.8mm. You can appreciate its fine finishing through the oversized sapphire display window. I’ll often note that many exhibition casebacks really don’t have much to exhibit. Such is not the case here. The Architect’s blued screws, custom rotor, and decorated movement holder make the view worthwhile.
Tessé used the same case as its Michel model (indeed, this watch is listed as the “Michel Architect” on the website), which is a wise choice for both economy and aesthetics. This 40mm-wide, 47.1mm-long cushion case cuts a bold figure with its chunky lugs, grooved sides, and the radial brushing on the sloped upper section, which offers a striking contrast to the brightly polished surfaces. The blue detailing on the signed crown doesn’t hurt either.
Of course, a 40mm square is a rather large area. This is good for visual impact and for making the nearly 11mm thick case appear slim, but it occupies quite a bit of wrist real estate. While this may not be an issue if your wrist is larger than mine (6.75″), I found it to be at the limit of what I’d normally consider appropriate for anything outside the tool or dive watch categories. Of course, your comfort zone may well be different than mine, and pretty as it is, the Architect is not a dress watch. Its robust case, 100m water resistance rating, and AR-coated sapphire crystal should easily withstand the rigors of daily wear and all but the most extreme weekend adventures.
Before I move on to the dial, I’d like you to pause a moment to take it in. Appreciate the sunray surface, the arrangement of the tall, semi-circular wedges, and the diminutive lume blocks on the chapter index. There is much to take in.
In daylight, the pronounced features and alternating finishes create marvelous depth, movement, and variations in color. Heat-blued hands add to the effect while providing more than sufficient contrast for easy readability. Dial text consists of just the brand name and Swiss Made appellation, both rendered in an attractive, lightweight typeface tucked into the outermost valley and slightly right of center.
And then there is the color.
Tessé does is clearly not afraid to employ a dash of pigment in thier dials. This one is Studio Pink. Other options include Pistachio Vault, Neon Blueprint, Solar Facade, and Obsidian Core. That last one is black, so maybe not as falshy as the rest but I’ll wager it has a shimmer that brings it to life. You can also order monochrome Blue Vector and Black Shadow models ($1,282) featuring color-matched cases. Those will be ready for delivery this summer.
Many designers would have leaned into the color and texture and skimped out on lume. Not Tessé. The Architect employs a series of BL10 lume blocks that generate a surprisingly bright glow for their a small size.
Each variant comes on a nicely made, 20mm, Italian leather strap and a stout, signed buckle that is finished to match the case. Studio Pink arrives on Navy, but you surely didn’t think that was the only option, did you? You can change things up with Tessé’s cut-to-fit rubber straps ($70).
There are 10 colors and two patterns (waffle and basketweave), equipped with quick-release pins and a 16mm, spring-actuated, deployant clasp. As you can see, there is enough range to cut them down to child-size if need be.
While pink on pink was a plesant combination, turquoise on pink would be my springtime selection.
The Tessé Architect is a stunning watch that pushes your comfort zone in a most satisfying way. The case finishing is top-notch, the colors are arresting, and the dial is a work of art. I only wish it was a touch smaller so it would fit my wrist a bit better. A 38mm case would be more my style, but that could make the watch appear chunky and dinish the size of the dial, which would be a crime. No, the Tessé Architect is probably better enjoyed just as it is: big, bold, and beautiful.
For more information or to order an Architect of your own, visit tesse-watches.com.
