You cannot discuss the origin of the microbrand watch business without mentioning the Bernhardt Watch Company. Founded by Fred Amos, this North Carolina company began by making watches for a local university and soon became one of the most respected names in the microbrand watch community, renowned for its affordable tool watches and outstanding customer service.
Perhaps the most beloved Bernhardt watch is the Binnacle Diver (née “Sea Shark”; there was a bit of a legal dispute over that name). Designed by Fred’s son, it was launched in 2005 and found its way onto many an enthusiast’s wrist, including mine. Now, 20 years later, Bernhardt pays tribute to that icon with the 20th Anniversary Diver, a limited edition of just 20 pieces. In Bernhardt tradition, the watch is assembled, tested, and hand-regulated in the USA.
Like the original, the 20th Anniversary Diver is a rugged tool watch with a 41mm wide, 48mm long, 11mm thick stainless steel case, now rated for 300m water resistance. Inside is a Sellita SW300 Swiss automatic movement displayed through a sapphire exhibition window. Its custom rotor features the same shark emblem that graced the original’s caseback.
The most striking aspect of the 20th Anniversary Diver is its fabulous gray and white enamel sandwich dial. It retains the classic “shark tooth” markers, and Bernhardt has also equipped it with diamond-cut hands and BGW9 Super-LumiNova, then framed it with a sapphire dive bezel.
The Binnacle Diver’s bracelet has always been considered a quality piece, so it is fitting that the 20th Anniversary comes with a three-link, Oyster-style unit fitted with a push-button micro-adjustment clasp.
If you bought a Shark/Binnacle back in the day, you might be surprised by the Anniversary’s $1,150 price tag, but remember that it is one of 20, upgraded in every way, and it is not 2005 anymore. The Bernhardt 20th Anniversary Diver is available now at bernhardtwatch.com.
