Last year, we of The Time Bum team assembled a list of our favorite new releases. When we saw that some of us chose the same watches, we tallied them up, and almost as an afterthought, dubbed the Traska Summiteer our very first Time Bum Watch of the Year. It seems people liked that, so now it is officially our thing.
Here are the rules:
- The watches had to be from microbrands only. This means the brand must have a small number of full-time employees, outsource most of its production, use movements that are not produced in-house, and conduct sales primarily online with no more than a limited brick and mortar presence. Sorry, that means no Seiko or Citizen, but also no Sinn, Yema, or Christopher Ward.
- The watches had to be available to own in 2021. Watches ordered in 2020 for 2021 delivery were in, but those ordered in 2021 for 2022 delivery were out.
- We could only nominate watches we had actually handled. Just looking good online is not enough. This is a tough rule to follow but as we often say, photos and spec lists don’t even tell half the story. You have to put the watch on your wrist.
- No more than $3000. We want to keep it to a Bum-friendly price, but we don’t want to edge too far into boutique watchmaking.
- Each contributor could choose no more than five favorites.
Unlike 2020, we were able to get out and about this year, and while our watch enthusiast social calendars were not quite what they were in “before times,” we did get to a couple of events and dinners so we could sample more watches. After one final end-of-year happy hour staff meeting we announced and defended our nominations. As before, we assembled an impressive list and a clear winner emerged. Ladies and gentlemen, The Time Bum team is proud to announce…
Microbrand Watch of The Year: Tsao Baltimore Legacy
Loren: I nominated both the 40mm and 36mm versions as different variants of the same outstanding design. I love this watch, and love that Alan offered it in two sizes. They both share the same gorgeous case, bracelet link, and dial designs. The colors are rich and complex. Build quality is outstanding. The larger variant is a true dual crown with a lovely feel to the action. The smaller loses the internal bezel but gains a low profile butterfly deployant clasp in place of the ratcheting diver’s extension. There are differences in movement too; a Maryland Watch Works MD-1 for the bigger, and a low-profile Miyota 9015 for the smaller. Both are decorated with Tsao’s Maryland flag rotor. There are no bad choices here. In either guise, the Tsao Legacy is an absolute stunner.
Lauren: The Tsao Legacy released in February is a fantastic watch, but a bit too much watch for me. When I saw the prototype 36 at Watches, Whiskey, and Wine in July, I was immediately intrigued. Once I had it in hand for review in November, I was in love. It’s everything you want in a stylish sports watch and nothing you don’t need.
Mike: The Tsao Legacy is just a fantastic watch. The first truly unique design from the Baltimore-based brand features a Maryland-assembled movement, a brilliant fumé brushed dial that dazzles in the light, and a Y-link bracelet that reminds one of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas (never a bad thing). When I opened the box upon receiving my review piece, this watch blew me away. It’s always nice to see a brand come into its own.
Nate: Sometimes a watch brings its bold design choices together in such a natural and cohesive way it makes you accept the cliche, “the great ones make it look easy.” Just look at this thing: Explorer numerals, sandwich dial, rotating inner bezel with 24 hr GMT numerals *and* two-tone night/day coloring, dual crown, cushion case. Anything else? Oh yeah — a badass purple fume dial. Not to mention the custom Maryland flag rotor on the back. And it all works so beautifully. The DMV (Delaware, Maryland, Virginia) area has a new standard-bearer in the Tsao Legacy, and the future looks bright in Alan Tsao’s hands.
The Rest of the Best
The following are all of the rest of our picks, arranged in alphabetical order.
Brew Metric
Nate: Of the many things you might think at first glance of the Brew Metric – disco, bell bottoms, LSD? – coffee probably isn’t one of them. This is what makes this watch, and the brand overall, so genuine. All comers can appreciate the aesthetics of Jonathan Ferrer’s innovative designs, while the caffeine addicts get an extra hit: like a coffee bean logo at 3 o’clock, and the rehaut color-coded to 25-35 second intervals for espresso shot timers. The watch itself is delightfully wearable with a 36 mm case on a smooth stainless steel bracelet, and powered by the VK68 MechaQuartz movement comes in rather affordable too. Keep a keen eye out for the next release… and put a fresh pot on.
Detroit Watch Company M-1 Le Mans Classic
Nate: If you ask the casual observer about a watch brand in Detroit, you’re likely to hear a shrugged, “Shinola…?” Now, of course, you loyal bums are not lesser observers – where the answer lands with a high-five and a cheer: Detroit Watch Company. That celebratory spirit drives the Le Mans Classic special edition, honoring Detroit’s Ford GT40 series that captured the checkered flag and popped champagne at 24 hours of Le Mans 1968 and 1969. For good measure, the watch specs live up to that pedestal — with an automatic Valjoux Eta 7750 movement adorned in top-notch finishing (multi-layered fleur de lis on the bridge and rotor!), a burnished metallic racing blue dial, housed in a rugged 42 mm stepped bezel stainless steel case. This might be the most attractive all-around model in one of most underrated micros, and it’s worth every Affirm hit.
Gane Type C
Lauren: When I saw this watch on Instagram, I was struck by the possibility of a true brick bracelet and a dial that highlights the machining techniques used in watch manufacturing. In hand, the bracelet especially lived up to the promise of the photos. It flows around the wrist better than any bracelet this side of 1978 and the dial is mesmerizing at every angle.
Havaan Tuvali Heritage 72
Loren: In my review, I said if you didn’t fall in love with this watch, then you must be dead inside. I still stand by that. This is Eric Yeh’s labor of love. The case, crystal, and crown are 1970s NOS from the back room of a Taiwanese factory. The FHF97 hand-winding movement comes from a cache squirreled away by a Taipei watchmaker. The dial and hands are hand-made by Eric at his bench. The case back features a Taiwanese coin of the same era. Everything about it ties back to a particular time and place. I bought it, I love it, and you cannot pry this watch away from me.
Monta Noble
Nate: Some may not consider Monta a “microbrand” at this point, but focusing on that will miss the larger point – Michael DiMartini and Justin Kraudel deliver some rock-solid “value luxury.” Oxymoron? Perhaps. Best bang for your buck sub-3K? Tough to argue. The Monta Noble is the latest in their line of dressy-sport watches that jazzes up the dressy side with a high polish case, a new handset, and an alluring dégradé dial that takes Monta Blue to new heights. All of this comes with the same rhodium-plated hands, 150m water resistance, and buttery smooth bracelet that Monta fans have come to love and expect.
RZE Endeavour
Lauren: RZE has been on a straight-up tear for the last 18 months, completely redefining the expectations and limits for what you can do with titanium under $500. The Endeavour bezel feels fantastic and thanks to the lightness of the titanium, the watch almost disappears on your wrist.
Loren: Honestly, I could have nominated any one of RZE’s releases; all are tough tool watches with remarkably tight designs and titanium cases. Still, my favorite has got to be the yellow Endeavour that I ordered before I even finished writing my review. The slim profile, perfectly proportioned bracelet, and sunny dial won me over. RZE might have been edged out for Watch of The Year, but having launched three equally outstanding watches in 12 months, they would get my vote for Brand of The Year. If we did that. Should we do that?
Vaer Ceremony
Nate: Many watch brands claim to offer a modern dress watch, just like many music fans say they listen to Jimmy. Vaer hears Jimmy.
The restrained 36 mm case diameter and 9 mm height are just the beginning of the midcentury riffs: highlighted by a gorgeous gold plated case framing an inky black dial cut with sharp dauphine hands and applied gold indices. Pictured next to the 1953 Gruen Spider (2021 Ultimate Halloween watch) you can appreciate how closely the Ceremony celebrates its dress watch lineage. The elegant, hand-wound ETA 7001 makes for a nice finishing touch. You won’t find a modern dress watch with truer classic styling, plus the Venice Beach brand delivers 10 ATM water resistance and a contemporary quick-release rubber strap option to keep things true to their outdoor-venturing roots.
Vario 1918 Trench Watch
Loren: I’ve owned several trench-style watches over the years and this Vario is easily the most faithful to the genre. Pocket watch style enamel dial? Check. Proper (37mm) size? Check. High dome crystal? Check. Fixed lugs? Of course! The look is spot-on and the package is thoroughly modern with a Miyota automatic movement, SuperLuminova, and 100m water resistance. Better still, Vario offers it in two sizes, two case materials, and multiple dial and strap options — all under $400. This was another one I bought for myself and have worn frequently. I’m not saying it’s for everyone, but if you dig the general style, they have definitely got one for you.
Vero Open Water
Mike: While the Vero Open Water isn’t perfect, as I went back through my year in watches, it stuck out the most for me. The brand’s first watch after stepping away from its “Made in the USA” efforts, the Open Water line features one of my favorite bezels of all time plus a cohesive, modern design that represents something new in the hypersaturated microbrand landscape.
