Signum Watch Company is a sister company to Kyle Schut’s Straton Watch Company. Where motorsports inspire Straton, Signum is all about exotic materials like forged carbon, meteorite, abalone, and semi-precious stones. The brand’s latest offering is the Sollus collection, offered in both MechaQuartz chronograph and three-hand Miyota automatic variants with a range of lovely and unusual dials. I sampled both a Malachite Chrono and an Auto for this review.
The Chrono is a stout 42mm wide, 48mm long, 12mm thick tool watch with straight sides, a 22mm strap, and chunky crown guards and buttons. With its athletic stance and brushed finish, it looks is every bit the tool watch, and with 100m water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a very slightly domed sapphire crystal, it goes far to deliver on that promise. But then you get to the dial and discover this is something else entirely.
Like every watch in the Signum line, the Chrono has an exotic dial. My review sample was the intense Malachite dial you see here. It’s a gorgeous stone, vibrant green, and shot through with dark striations. Because it is made from a natural material, every dial will be unique, but I highly doubt you will find a dud. It is not a subtle effect. Such a busy surface could very well have fought with the more common dial elements for attention and won. Wisely, Kyle resisted the urge to pack too much onto it — no small feat when designing a chronograph.
Bars mark the hours, a choice that has the added benefit of not giving up much where the subdials squeeze them out. Catch those dials in the right light, and you can take in their detailed rings and the casual, almost handwritten, numerals inside. Everything is polished and applied: the handset, subdial needles, logo, even the fine lines connecting the spaces between the markers.
It is all nicely done, and yet, this is where the Chrono turns away from function and plunges headlong into form. I wasn’t kidding when I said you need to catch these elements in the right light. They tend to disappear into the glossy surface below the minute a shadow gets in the way. Such is the curse of the polished-on-dark watch design motif. If you want to love it when it reflects light, you have to accept it when it catches the darkness too. A bit of lume would have gone a long way in this regard, even in daylight, but you won’t find a speck of it on any of the Sollus watches.
Bright, flat white lume on the hands and markers would have increased contrast but detracted from the polished stone and its natural beauty. That’s the star of this show, and it will not be upstaged. That said, there are some tasty details to be found, my favorite of which is the perforated index ringing the dial.
Flip the watch over, and you will find another surprise; an exhibition caseback displaying a quartz movement. Ok, a Seiko VK63 MechaQuartz, but it is still an uncommon sight. As someone who has grown increasingly weary of seeing garden-variety NH35s, 9015s, and 2824s, you might expect me to take Signum to task, but I kind of like the fact that the Chrono shows its quartz pride. Moreover, Kyle has decorated the window with a yin-yang symbol incorporating both the branches and roots of a tree. It’s a nice image and one that makes the Chrono all the more distinctive.
While the Chrono is fully functional, I got the distinct impression that it was a statement piece first and a speed timer second. It is an exercise in contrasts; the buff, tool watch case, and the vivid, arresting dial inside. I understand the appeal, but I know many (myself included) would feel more comfortable showing off a fancy dial on a dressier watch. And that brings us to the Auto.
This watch is the more refined of the two. Measuring 40.5mm wide, 46mm long, and just 10mm thick with 20mm lug spacing, its case is a multi-part affair. Gracefully arched case sides fall away from the central barrel and flow into clipped lugs.
A combination of brushed and polished surfaces breaks up the form, making the watch appear even leaner than it already is. Details like the slightly recessed crown and the slim polished bevels inside the lugs take it to the next level. Finally, we have a domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal to top it off. The result is sleek, comfortable, and a delight from any angle.
Unlike the Chrono, the Auto’s dial is open and relatively unadorned. I noticed and appreciated the perforated index on this watch more than I did on the Chrono because here, it doesn’t have to compete with any other elements. I love the way it carries the simple bar markers above the dial, providing a satisfying touch of elevation.
Polished and faceted alpha hands underscore the Auto’s dressier design, as does the fancy script “Automatic” that serves as the only text on the dial. Befitting its style, the Auto has a push-pull crown and is water resistant to 50m.
The Auto’s minimalist face allows it to showcase its unusual dial material, in this case, smoky Mother of Pearl. Formed on the inner layer of certain mollusk shells, Mother of Pearl is known for its durability and iridescence. This sample presented an undulating dark gray surface with hints of slate blue and indigo, along with the occasional flashes of silver and bright green. Gorgeous.
On the flip side, we have a display window to show the Miyota 9015 automatic. It is not a highly decorated movement, but I do like how the Geneva striping on the custom rotor coordinates with the same pattern on the caseback ring.
Both watches come with similar straps of tan leather that taper to signed buckles. It works well with both of these pieces and across the whole line. Impressive, given the range of dials offered in the Sollus collection. In addition to Malachite, buyers may choose Sodalite, Howlite, Phantom Crystal, Terahertz, Labradorite, or African Bloodstone for the Chrono. Auto buyers get Malachite, Mother of Pearl, Blue Copper Turquoise, and Labradorite.
I have always appreciated the way Kyle gives his customers choice in size and style within each of his collections. Here, the Auto’s sleek case and understated dial worked better for me, while those who prefer a sportier style and a larger case can opt for the Chrono. Neither choice will break the bank: the Auto is $449 in the presale and $529 list, and the Chrono is $339 presale and $399 list.
If you want to start your year with something a little more daring on your wrist, you will do well to check out the Signum Sollus collection. Head over to SignumWatches.com to order.
