Today, I am reviewing the Vario 1918 Pilot, the latest project from the Singaporean brand that started as a strap retailer and branched into watchmaking. Vario’s founder, Ivan Chua, has harnessed his passion for watches and produced an impressive array of inspired range of dress (Eclipse and Empire), pop (Navi x Popeye), and vintage military (1918 Tranch, 1945 D-12) watches. What I like about Ivan and his brand is that he produces affordable pieces that are among the highest quality in their range. Vario’s collection includes enamel dials, uniquely designed cases, and a range of unisex sizes.
The Vario 1918 Pilot pays homage to early the early days of aviation and the development of some of the first tool watches. Captain Ross McPherson Smith piloted one of the first aircraft to fly from England to Australia, stopping in Singapore along the way. This links the 1918 Pilot to a unique moment in something special for the brand, a true homage to their origin country and aviation. It is known that Captain Smith wore his watch tilted for quick and easy reading with his hands on the yoke.
We can debate all day about the right size of a watch. As Loren noted in his review of the Vario 1918 Trench, most WW1-era watches were pretty small by modern standards and not far off of the Pilot’s 40mm diameter, which felt perfect on my 6.25-inch wrist.
This sample featured a beautiful dark blue enameled dial that appears almost black. Its big, bold Arabic numbers are typical of the style of early 20th-century pilot’s watches and create a good contrast with the rest of the face. The long cathedral-style hands reach out to the perimeter of the chapter ring, making it easier to read at a glance. Like the watches that inspired it, there is no text on the 1918 Pilot’s dial apart from the branding, ensuring a clean presentation. The tilted dial can be a bit confusing at first because we are used to bending our arms to read the time; once you remember you have the 1918 Pilot on the wrist, it becomes natural.
Powering the watch, we have a reliable Miyota 8N33. It is hand-winding with no hacking seconds, but somehow, that makes it seem all the more authentic.
The 1918 Pilot comes on a bund-style strap, the tabs of which fit through the fixed wire lugs and are secured by a screw on each end. It looks good and is period correct. Once the watch is on the wrist, it comes alive. It is perfect for driving, allowing you to keep your hands on the wheel and still easily read the time. It is a very thin watch, only 10mm thick. Its lug-to-lug of 48mm gives presence but does not overwhelm. With a dial like this, the double AR coating is highly appreciated, making that navy blue sharper and showing those dark tones well. I spent some good time with the Pilot, and it works well in a variety of situations, from casual attire at the office to everyday jeans and a shirt. The watch looks good and is a beautiful piece of nostalgia for the wrist.
I enjoyed many things about Vario’s new project; the size was spot on, and the tilted dial is a novelty that will likely be refreshing in any collection. The refinement that the Pilot 1918 offers is almost impossible to find under any other brands at this price point. This watch has no set price yet, but judging from Vario’s previous offerings, you can expect great value. Vari anticipates a formal launch before the end of the year. In the meantime, visit www.vario.sg for more information and to sign up for notifications.
Technical Specs
Case diameter: 40mm
Case thickness: 10mm
Dial: Enamel
Crystal: 2mm double domed sapphire with inner AR applied
Lug width: 20mm
Lug to lug: 48mm
Lume: BGW9 Lume
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Caseback: 316L stainless steel with sapphire exhibition
Crown: push-pull crown
Movement: Miyota 8N33 hand-wound movement (non-hacking seconds). 17 jewels 21.6kpbh more than 40 hours power reserve
Water resistance: 5 atm
Strap: Crazy horse leather with bund pad (80mm/120mm) or single pass (270mm)
Warranty: 1-year global warranty
