Mechanical GMTs are thick on the ground right now, so how does a new one stand apart from the crowd? Canada’s Héron Watches is betting that a dress version will do the trick as they launch the Héron Mirabel GMT.
While Héron was not the first microbrand to take this approach (the Vario Empire True GMT comes to mind), such models are fairly uncommon, and the brand has done a remarkably good job. It uses the Miyota 9075 automatic (24 jewels, 28.8k bph, 42+ hour power reserve). This is a “true” GMT as the fourth hand is independently adjustable.
The Mirabel is 37.5mm wide, 43.5mm long, and 11.8mm tall, with 1.2mm of this thickness taken up by a delightful boxed sapphire crystal. I’d place it in the mid-sized range for a man’s watch, a perception enhanced by the fullness of its C-shaped case (think vintage Omega Constellation). The predominantly polished surface is offset with longitudinal brushing on its dramatic lug-to-lug arch, which, along with the angled bezel and chamfered edges, serves to slim down the already lean case. On my 6.75″ wrist, the Mirabel strikes the right balance between elegance and presence.
Héron maintains that balancing act through several design elements. A GMT complication is generally considered a tool watch function, and it requires some effort to blend tool and dress elements effectively. I think Héron has accomplished this feat.
The fourth hand is perhaps the easiest GMT aspect to integrate. Here, it is a simple arrowhead hand as slim as the second hand, and its head is polished and faceted like the primary hands. Daggerlike Alpha hands are equally at home on dress and pilot’s watches, making them a natural choice here.
A slab-serif, 19th-century typeface for the 24-hour index, along with applied and polished Roman hour markers, lends a touch of refinement to the painted enamel dial, despite the inclusion of a military-style sector center and railroad track index. The result harkens back to the GMT’s aviation origins with a flourish that gives it just the right degree of formality.
It’s a lovely layout, especially in the silver and navy combination shown here. Héron also offers gold with a black or brown face. My only complaint is that polished hands tend to disappear on dark backgrounds when a shadow falls over them. If this bothers you, you might try the watch in white with heat-blued hands instead.
The Mirabel’s fluted diamond crown would look right at home on a pilot’s watch, but while broad enough for an easy grip, it is not so tall that it ruins the lines of the case. A blue resin cabochon tops it off with a flourish. It’s a push-pull. Water resistance is limited to 50m, which is perfectly suitable for daily wear and appropriate for a dress watch.
Peer between the lower lugs and you will find the model name and serial number engraved within. It’s a clever touch.
On the case back, you will find a world time index in crisp relief, which can be handy when calculating the time difference between cities, albeit less so when it is pressed against your wrist. It also features a hand-painted enamel day/night center. There is a perlage finish inside the lid
Many watch brands, both large and small, often skimp on the strap. Héron most assuredly did not. Rather than a generic factory strap, the Mirabel’s is made by Delugs from gorgeous French Baranil leather, saddle stitched by hand. As with all Delugs straps, it is expertly crafted and a joy to wear. You can swap it easily with the supplied quick-release bars, but I can’t imagine why you would.
It tapers from 20mm to an 18mm signed buckle.
The Héron Mirabel GMT ticks all the right boxes for me: an uncommon approach, vintage style, and clever execution. If you need any more encouragement, I’d ask you to consider the price, just $690 US, which is right on par for this style of watch and movement.
