In my last review, I extolled the virtues of quartz watches, and my excitement that more enthusiast-marketed watches are utilizing quartz movements. In my celebration of quartz, the watches I referenced were three-handers, and while not mundane, are a simpler, common execution of the technology. One of the wonders of quartz movements, though, is their potential to provide no-frills accuracy under complex and demanding conditions. Omega’s X-33 is the peak demonstration of this, but there’s a lot of space between that technological marvel and local-time only quartz watches.
Certina have recently entered the delta with their DS-X GMT lineup, and in so doing have come close to making my ideal travel watch. I admit a bias toward Certina, as they make the type of tool watches I am drawn to, and are a bit of a dark horse brand here in the U.S. Being a capable underdog is a quick path to earning my affection. Throwing in innovation and smart use of color – these two qualities only relevant for watches and cars – will deepen my ardor, and lead me to look past some of your quirks.
The DS-X range is new for Certina and, so far, limited to the GMT models. The “X” denotes the extreme shock resistance system that is the latest iteration of the brand’s famous technology designed to protect the movement from damage or fault during indelicate use. The abbreviated description is that multiple physical layers exist between the dial, the case, and the movement to absorb and distribute vibrational forces away from the delicate bits. More thorough explorations are out there if you yearn for deeper knowledge. The result is that you can knock the DS-X GMT about without deep concern for its well-being, if not quite to G-Shock levels of reckless abandon.
The DS-X system protects ETA’s new F06.865, which Certina is the second of the Swatch Group’s brands to utilize, following the quartz Tissot Seastar 1000 GMT. Movements in the F06 line have a projected 5-year battery life, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the GMT requires a battery change at an earlier interval compared to the three-hand format, given the power needed to move the GMT hand. Note that I am not an engineer, and add the appropriate amount of salt to my speculation. The F06 series is high-accuracy quartz (HAQ), and while there is scant information about accuracy specifically for the F06.865, three-hand models have a claimed accuracy of +/-10 seconds per year. The Precidrive technology – Certina’s branding for ETA’s HeavyDrive movements – also means that the seconds hand hits all its marks, avoiding one of the common critiques of quartz watches.
The movement and shock resistance system sits within a stainless steel case that measures 41.2mm wide, 47.5mm long, and 12.15mm tall. The shaping is classic Certina, with a gentle arc flowing from lug tip to lug tip, accentuated with polished chamfers that delineate the case flanks from the top of the midcase. On the crown side of the case, the chamfer neatly runs to the end of the crown guards that shelter an easy-to-grip, tight-to-the-case crown. The case flanks are vertically brushed, adding some visual presence to the watch’s height, while the brushing atop the midcase runs from lug to lug, accentuating the case’s length. The finishing and sizing make for a noticeable but not bulky wrist presence, and the arching profile conforms to the wrist, making the DS-X a comfortable watch to wear.
The bezel atop the midcase is another innovation Certina debuted with the DS-X GMT lineup. It is a dual system in which both bezels rotate individually. The outer is a friction bezel with a compass scale that I am likely never to use, but which looks great. The brightness of the radial brushing contrasts nicely with the engraved and black-painted lettering. Unfortunately, the friction isn’t particularly strong, and the compass bezel is prone to unintentional rotation.
This outer ring is also a safety of sorts for the inner bezel, as you have to depress it toward the midcase in order to access and rotate its inset counterpart. The action is familiar if you’ve handled Certina’s dive watches, which require a downward press to enable rotation. It is curious in this specific format, though, as the inner 24-hour scale doesn’t run the same safety risk imposed by accidental movement of a countdown scale while diving. Similarly curious is the decision to use a 90-click mechanism for the bidirectional GMT bezel. I tried to determine the benefits of 90 clicks over the more common 24-, 48-, or 96-click alternatives common to GMT watches, and didn’t find a compelling case.
Continuing the curiosities, it is an interesting choice not to incorporate a dive timer into this model, considering it is rated for 200m of submergence. A compass bezel that moves with slight force doesn’t sound particularly reliable underwater, and 200m water resistance is overkill for activity on land. Given the looseness of the compass bezel, and the aquatic sporting intentions of the watch, I’d rather the outer ring be fixed except for vertical motion, and carry the 24-hour scale, rendered in its current brushed steel finish. It could still be depressed to enable access to the inner ring, but the lack of rotational capability would make it more reliable. From there, switch the inner bezel to a count-up scale with a 60- or 120-click mechanism, and you have a reliable timing bezel for diving. The bi-directional action is firm enough to not require a unidirectional mechanism, particularly when combined with the secondary security of the outer ring. The arrangement might not satisfy ISO standards, but it would improve the utility of the dual-bezel system.
The DS-X GMT range currently includes three colorways – two of which utilize the same sunray grey dial, accented with either green or red. Then, there is the delightful riot of color that is the standout of the lineup. The bold color scheme won’t be to everyone’s taste, but I love its vibrance. Perhaps it is because I am a long-suffering Knicks fan who can finally be excited for basketball season, and not be negatively triggered by orange, blue, and white in the same space. Even if you don’t share my basketball fandom, there’s an effervescence to this colorway that yearns for the adventures that the watch’s functions are designed to endure.
Despite the bold blue and orange hues, there is some restraint to their deployment – they are accents that play off the white base of the dial, and draw your eyes to the DS-X’s functions. The orange GMT hand enables easy reading of the second time zone, standing in high contrast to the dial, and distinct from the black polished hour, minute, and second hand. The blue chapter ring is easily discernible from the white dial and makes the minute markers call for attention. I love the aluminum bezel insert, which behaves dynamically with light, letting the blue and orange slightly change their tones based on the angle at which light strikes the metal.
As someone who often tries to match watch to outfit, or outfit to watch, I thought I’d struggle aligning the bold colors to anything but black. The Knickerbocker – my pitch for a colloquial name – allayed those concerns, and reminded me that a watch that goes with little actually goes with everything. It is freeing to accept that the bold aesthetic is not meant for subtlety, is intended to stand out, and therefore need not coordinate with your wardrobe. For those who are not ready for such sartorial liberation, the more sober, but less interesting, grey-dial variants ring in at the same starting price of $535. If you need to justify your retreat from joy, the bracelet is only available on those two models.
If you are willing to be adventurous with your model selection, the Knickerbocker comes with a bright blue rubber strap that complements the blues used on the dial and bezel. I’m not usually a fan of fitted rubber straps, whether original equipment or aftermarket. They tend to be stiff and bulky where they attach to the case, both qualities that contribute to discomfort. The strap that comes affixed to the DS-X is an outlier, as it is both well-constructed and highly comfortable. What contributes to this? The material is the starting point, as the rubber used is highly pliable, has the surface feel of silicone, but eschews silicone’s static cling. Certina provides little detail as to what rubber compound they used, but bravo to whoever developed such an amiable material.
There are also structural design decisions that contribute to the band’s comfort. The strap ends – where they affix to the case – are thinner than many other fitted rubber straps I’ve experienced, and curve down steeply from the lugs. Without the former quality, the latter would be problematic, but the thin curve leaves space between the strap and the wrist, even with my 7.5” wrist. Flanges on the buckle side hold the keeper of your choice in place, which I used for the second keeper to ensure that the tail of the strap didn’t come loose and flap about. Should you choose the inverse arrangement, the outer keeper has a single tooth – like an adorable infant – that fits the strap holes, also mitigating strap flap. Certina takes their “double security” mantra very seriously. The central channel on the outer surface of the strap is finished with a nicely-detailed basketweave pattern, and the “DS-X” model designation is close to where the strap meets the case. I could do without the latter, but given the monochromatic finishing, the text is easy to ignore.
Two quibbles, and then the deep exploration of the strap will meet its overdue conclusion. In their commitment to double security, Certina has utilized two-pronged quick-release springbars of the sort more commonly found on bracelets. This makes sense with a bracelet, which has less flexibility, but less so with the rubber strap, as it increases the difficulty of fitment compared to the more common single-prong style. My second quibble is with the clasp, which is beautifully machined and etched with the brand’s wordmark logo, but has a couple of hotspots on the underside that can get irritating with long wear. Interestingly, when I reversed the location for the two halves of the strap, the hotspot was no longer an issue. If rubber straps aren’t to your taste, 20mm lug spacing leaves a vast aftermarket open to your exploration.
The DS-X GMT isn’t without competition in the sub-$1,000 flier quartz GMT market, beginning with the intra-familial Tissot SeaStar 1000m GMT. Same movement, similar pricing, and just under 400 meters of additional water resistance. That water resistance benefit is undermined by its superfluousness in a watch absent a timing scale, and I imagine anyone cross-shopping the two would make their choice based on style above any other factor. The Seiko Sumo GMT is another competitor, and an actual dive watch that trades the Certina’s high accuracy for solar charging. Between the Sumo and the DS-X, the most meaningful distinctions are the bezel functions and size, as the Sumo is nearly 4mm wider than the Certina. I prefer the bezel function of the Seiko, but the dimensions, style, and movement of the Certina.
The combination of the DS-X shock-resistance system, the ETA F06.865’s flier GMT function and high accuracy, and 200m of water resistance, makes a durable and low-maintenance travel companion deserving of the brand’s sea turtle mascot. Adjusting the function and format of the two bezels, without losing their respective finishes, would make the DS-X GMT my perfect travel watch. As is, Certina has crafted a capably charming gem, especially if you are willing to be bold with your color choice.
