The Bernhardt Watch Company of North Carolina was a microbrand before anyone called independent watchmakers “microbrands.” Founded in 2005, this family-owned business developed a fiercely loyal following of enthusiasts and a reputation for delivering high-value tool watches. Dress watches, not so much. That should change with the release of the slim and smart Bernhardt Captain ($749).
Bernhardt intends the Captain to be suitable for both everyday wear and more formal occasions, and the case proportions go far toward striking that balance: 38mm width, 45mm length, and 9.55mm thick, with a 20mm strap. It is small and thin enough to be unobtrusive when worn with a fastened shirt cuff, but not so small that it looks dainty when worn with more casual clothes. For my 6.75″ wrist, 38mm is the sweet spot.
The case is conservatively styled and neatly executed. A rounded bezel frames the dial and provides a clean break, with just the slightest lip where it meets the flat sides, creating a pleasant character line. Inside is a Miyota 9039, a 24-jewel, 28.8k bph automatic. It is the thinnest in Miyota’s legendary 9000-series line and is regulated in-house by Bernhardt.
Bernhardt offers three colorways: the white/steel Fog, blue/steel Cove, and the lush green/rose gold Cypress shown here. Only the Cypress gets a titanium nitride PVD coating, which provides an extremely hard protective layer and its distinctive color. With sensible care, that coating, along with the sapphire crystal, should help keep the watch in fine form for years to come.
The crown is modestly sized and signed. It is a push-pull unit and, in keeping with the Captain’s mission, it is sealed to 50m for water resistance. Regardless of what the attractive ship’s wheel decorating the case back may imply, it’s best to keep this Captain out of rough waters. That said, 50m is more than sufficient for a dress watch.
The best expression of the Captain’s dress watch sensibilities is its guilloché dial, surrounded by radial brushing. That intricate, mesmerizing pattern, paired with substantial applied Breguet numerals and delicate feuille hands, gives the watch a timeless elegance.
It would have been a shame to interrupt this dial with a brand name plastered in the middle. Seeing this, Bernhardt wisely chose to integrate its name into the gold railroad track index. You will notice that it is not the brand’s usual logotype, and this is a good thing, as the Captain’s caligraphic script is better suited to this style.
You can’t have a proper dress without a proper strap. That would be like wearing tan dress sneakers with a dark Brooks Brothers suit —a fashion crime committed all too often here in DC. Bernhart does it right, supplying a tapered, American-made strap in dark brown pebbled leather. It’s soft, finely crafted, and the rich color anchors the watch beautifully.
The Bernhardt Captain is an ideal dress watch. It’s got the right proportions, a fabulous dial, and a smooth, reliable movement. The excellent strap is the icing on an already very tasty cake. For just under $750, it would be a fine addition to your collection.
As of this writing, the blue Cove and white Fog are still available, but only two of the green Cypress remain in stock. While I liked the Cypress, there is something to be said for the versatility of a white dial, particularly when it has those lovely heat-blued hands.
If you are in the market for a dress watch, I recommend you head over to bernhardtwatch.com and give the Capitan a good look.
