When I see a retro-inspired watch, I ask myself if it is intended to be viewed as a product of the past or of the present. For example, if I see a watch with clear vintage compressor cues, I’ll consider whether the watchmaker wanted it to look as if it were designed in the 1960s or in the 2020s. There is no better or worse answer, as both approaches can yield remarkable results; case in point, the Belhamel Contra A39 ($472). It is a vintage-inspired yet thoroughly modern diver, and it is absolutely delightful.
Belhamel is a relatively new brand that has already developed a reputation for inspired design and high value. It releases its watches in limited regional batches, and they sell out rapidly. As such, I regret to inform my fellow Americans that they can no longer purchase this release of the Contra A39, but my UK and EU readers still have the chance if they act now.
Having worn the review sample for a while, I can see why they disappear so quickly. The Contra A39’s case is, as the name implies, 39mm wide. Overall length is 47mm, and it is 11.8mm thick. These are tidy proportions for any tool watch, let alone one rated for 300m water resistance like this one. The Contra’s tool watch bona fides continue with hardened, marine-grade stainless steel, a double-domed and AR-coated (four layers, interior) sapphire crystal, and of course, a screw-down crown.
A gentle arch from lug-to-lug makes it sit a bit lower, while a deep undercut and polished bevels on either side of the longitudinally brushed case sides make it seem wafer-thin. A Miyota 9039 automatic delivers robust operation and buttery smoothness (28.8k bph) in a svelte package. There is a strong 1960s skin-diver aesthetic here, which is always a sound choice in my book.
A brushed and engraved stainless steel bezel masks the A39’s already modest width by blending in with the other brushed surfaces of the case and keeping your eye on the dial instead. The only bezel element that calls your attention is the orange triangle at top center. It’s a tasteful accent and a functional necessity given that the rest of the bezel’s thin-lined markings are treated with black paint. That orange pop and its lumed pip will be essential when using your watch in its intended underwater environment. Under more mundane conditions, it’s a neat accent that ties in with the orange index hatches on the fives and the second hand’s arrowhead.
Bezel action is superb. A ball bearing system enables confident (but not stiff) snaps through its 120-click uniderectional rotation. A fine coin edge provides ample grip.
The resulting form is svelte and comfortable, even on my 6.75″ wrist. It cuts a handsome figure. This watch is a capable diver, but there is no reason it won’t serve you well every day, on dry land. I’ll add that the lovely Forest Green dial looks fabulous with a tan suit.
Color is clearly important to the brand. The initial release offered Raisin Black and Charcoal Blue dials. The black was, um … black? To be fair, I did not see either of these in person, but I also found no account of the black being anything offbeat. The blue, however, was distinctive, softer than the usual Navy one might expect, and showed variations in shade depending on the light in any given photograph. Belhamel took a similar approach to this release, which included Polar White and Forest Green; a conservative staple and a less predictable selection.
Under most conditions, the green is a touch lighter and grayer than I would have thought given the “forest” designation. Not that I’m complaining in the slightest. The color shown on Behlhamel’s website is accurate, and, as I mentioned above, I find the muted tone attractive and easy to pair with my wardrobe.
The large, polished markers and sleek, diamond-cut hands are filled with Swiss BGW9 Super-LumiNova, providing easy legibility in all lighting conditions. White markers and orange accents on a matte green surface are an easy choice. The teal model name was riskier, but it paid off. It is a nuanced palette that makes me hope we’ll see another release in a new color. Not that anyone asked, but I’m imagining Mulberry. Just saying.
Belhamel supplies the Contra A39 with an excellent 3-link bracelet. Polished bevels on all sides enliven each link. The bracelet tapers from 20mm to 16mm for a trim look, and secures with a signed clasp with push-button adjustment. The links are secured with simple screws, which I believe is the only rational choice. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: split pins suck, screw bars are awkward, and don’t even get me started on the evil pin-and-collar system. Screws are the way to go.
A signed clasp with a push-button, on-the-fly adjustment ensures a proper fit, even as you travel from air-conditioned buildings into sweltering heat and humidity, as one does in the Washington, D.C. summer.
The case back is clean and simple, but while we are looking at it, notice the quick-release pins for the end links. Another point in the bracelet’s favor.
Belhamel has created a solid, stylish all-arounder with the Contra A39. Its tastefully understated appearance and subtle details make it the kind of watch you will instinctively reach for in the morning. I found it to be a charming office companion, but if your morning happens to involve submersion beyond blue whale cruising depths, the Contra is up to that task as well.
Best of all, Behamel delivers all of this watchy goodness for $473. That is a fine price, although quoting it in US dollars is a bit of a tease. Again, I urge my EU and UK readers to check stock in their regions. For those of you in the States, I’d recommend signing up as a member of the Belhamel Community to get alerts and discounts on coming pre-orders. I don’t know if or when another Contra will drop, but I do know they are working on a chronograph that looks mighty impressive.
Don’t miss out. Head over to belhamel.com and see for yourself.
