I’m going to sound like an old man here, but there was a time when it was relatively rare to see two companies, or artists, or entities, get together to create something. This was not only true in the watch world, but everywhere. Now, collaboration products are commonplace. This is not a bad thing; it’s just that when I see a new “Brand 1 x Brand 2” release, I no longer expect it to be anything particularly special. Alas, the Bum was getting pretty jaded until the Vario x RZE UltraHex Trench landed on my doorstep.
This is the kind of collaboration that made me say, “Of course!” I’ve reviewed watches from both of these Singaporean watchmakers from their very first releases. I’ve watched them develop their own design languages and refine their products over time. Vario tends to make modern interpretations of very traditional designs, epitomized by its Empire and Trench lines. RZE produced tough titanium tool watches with a contemporary edge. My personal collection contains more than a few from each brand.
For the collaboration, they started with the immensely popular Vario 1918 Trench watch, and its absolute gem of a 37mm case with fixed wire lugs and a 4:30 onion crown that screws down to seal it for 100m water resistance. It’s topped with a 2mm domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal.
At just 45mm long and 10mm thick, the proportions are faithful to the spirit of the Doughboys’ timepieces that inspired it. Vario has produced this watch in stainless steel and brass, but this time, RZE brought its considerable experience in titanium manufacturing. The case is the same matte gray that we have seen and loved on RZE watches for years, and it is treated with the proprietary UltraHex anti-scratch coating. It looks great, and, as I can attest from years of experience with my RZE Endeavour, it successfully prevents the scuffs that can often mar matte-finished titanium.
At first glance, the dial appears to be the same as other 1918 Trench variants, with its cathedral hands, railroad index, and luxuriant Art Nouveau numbers. For the collaboration, they offered three dials: forged carbon (sold out), Timascus (a forge-welded blend of titanium alloys that creates lovely striations of gray), and the Medallion Yellow, shown here.
While the other two options are undoubtedly sharp, I was immediately drawn to RZE’s signature Medallion Yellow. I’ve loved this combination since RZE first employed it in 2021. There is just something about a bright pop of yellow anchored by a strong, stable gray. It is both warm and cool, playful and sober, whimsical and industrial. I can go on, but you get the point. I think it works exceptionally well on the Trench, looking deep and lustrous in glossy enamel.
Turn out the lights, and you are treated to a bright BGW9 glow from the numbers, hands, crown, and the surprise RZE logo hidden in its white small seconds subdial. Could they have squeezed the RZE “R” under the Vario name up top? Sure. Would it have looked as good as this? No, it would not. It was far more clever to share the credit in a day/night fashion.
On the caseback, the brands have chosen simplicity, decorating the lid with their national flag. If you unscrew it, you will discover a Miyota 82s5 automatic gilt movement, accented in Côtes de Genève. I didn’t unscrew anything, so I’m taking that on faith. More practical benefits include its hand-winding and hacking capabilities and 40-hour power reserve.
Fixed lugs require particular strap solutions, so, like previous Vario Trenches, this one is supplied with an 18mm Crazy Horse strap with tabs and Chicago Screws and a Bund pad. I think it’s a great casual look, and the pad is easily removable if you decide it is a bit too much.
Regular readers know that I only mention a watch’s packaging if it is something really wasteful or particularly clever. This one falls into the latter category. Since the UltraHex Trench is a tool watch, it’s only fitting that it arrives in a toolbox. Not to worry, the small red metal box is well-padded to ensure your watch arrives safely. You could use the box for your watch tools or straps after, but that’s really not the point. It’s just a cool, fun touch. I love it.
Indeed, there is much to love about the Vario x RZE UltraHex Trench. It’s the synthesis of two watchmakers that have consistently produced excellent products in distinctive styles. They contributed their talents in equal measure, and the finished product reflects the best of both brands in a single, outstanding product.
The UltraHex Trench is available now from Vario.sg for $439 and is well worth it. US customers will be charged a 10% surcharge to cover the newly imposed tariffs (Boo!); however, they will not incur any additional charges upon entry (Yay!). If you use code 2025YE8 before December 31, you can get 8% off.
