Hemel has long been known for its military and tool watches, and while it has continued those themes with its Eyelandt collection, the sub-brand has also provided a place to experiment with watches that depart from Hemel’s usual aesthetic. The Eyelandt Aurealian ($348.99) may be its greatest departure to date, a practical everyday watch with a striking marble dial.
For the Aurelian, Hemel employs the same 40mm stainless steel case as the Gallant and Resolute I reviewed here, among others. It’s a sensible choice and nicely proportioned at 40mm wide, 48mm long, and 13mm thick when including the domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal. There is more than a hint of Rolex Explorer 224270, which is not a bad thing at all. This is a case that will fit a wide range of wrists. My 6.75-inch paw wore it rather well.
It will also serve for multiple occasions. Like all Hemels, the Eyelandt Aurelian is meant to be used. It’s water-resistant to 200m and runs a sturdy Seiko Epson YN55A automatic with a hacking second hand, 21,600 bph, 22 jewels, and a 40-hour power reserve.
If you need to put on a jacket and tie, the Aurilian is ready for that, too. A polished bezel adds visual interest and a touch of refinement to the otherwise tool-like finish, just as it does in its other iteration. On this watch, however, that reflective surface carries over to the polished center links of the supplied 20mm Jubilee bracelet, making the whole unit appear that much more dashing. It’s not a dress watch, per se, but it is nicely dressed up.
My only grumble is the crown. It’s a fine piece in and of itself: screw-down, coin-edged, and fabulously signed on its gold head. I just wish it were polished like the bezel or brushed like the case. Its matte finish looks fine on the more military Eyelandt and Hemel models, but it seems a tad casual for this application.
The Aurelian’s dial contains all the elements you might expect from Hemel’s vintage military theme: a railroad-track index, applied bar markers, syringe hands, and a paddle second hand. It would have been perfectly handsome in plain black or white, and with its generous application of Swiss BGW9 Super-LumiNova, eminently practical as well.
Of course, that marble dial is anything but plain. It’s natural stone with natural variation, so while all will be white with gray veins, each Aurealian will have its own unique appearance. So, what does a polished marble dial look like in person? It’s hard to explain. It’s neither a hard gloss of a painted dial nor the liquid depth of an enamel dial. It possesses its own special luster, and it works.
The various gray veins on this dial happened to be serendipitously oriented around the markers, leaving much of the center open and creating a radial design that seemed perfect for a watch face. I also noticed that the tint and shade of gray varied depending on the intensity of the light.
Flip the watch over, and you will be treated to Eyelandt’s whimsically old-fashioned logo and the proud proclamation of its founding. I find the idea of harkening back to the bygone year of 2022 to be a little funny, because that was, like, last week, right? But I believe that’s the point. It reminds me of a woodworker’s shop I once passed that said, “Antique tables made daily.” History has got to start somewhere.
I am an incorrigible strap swapper, but I’d leave this one on the supplied 20mm Jubilee-style bracelet. Those small, rounded links are both classy and comfortable due to their smooth articulation, and as mentioned above, the dual finishing is exactly what this watch needs to really shine.
A signed clasp with a convenient push-button extension mechanism ensures a proper fit after you have removed the proper number of links. Even that chore is made easier thanks to single-sided screws.
While the marble dial makes the Hemel Eyelandt Aurelian a novel watch, its careful execution prevents it from being a mere novelty. This is a watch you could easily wear daily, and it is likely to attract attention for all the right reasons. For $350, it’s an easy recommendation.
For more information or to buy an Eyelandt of your own, visit hemelwatches.com.
